Apache Questions & Answers (1/1/00 - present)


Well, this Q&A posting may be going the way of the dial telephone: replaced by a more efficient (though less pretty) model. Robert & Irene have started up a real-time bulletin board for Apache Popup questions and answers and postings. I can still post items here, but the Apache Popup Trailer Forum will have daily real-time postings. Check it out! -Doug

Q&A II postings from 1998 - 1999 can be found here.

Subject: Retrofitting A Heater?
Date: 05/17/01
From: Gregg & Kathleen
Question: Doug,
We have to thank you again for all the great info. We got info from you in 1999 and it really helped. Also used other Q & A's to get help (like making our own lifting chains). We have enjoyed many camping trips and have gotten many stares because there are VERY few Apache's in So. California (we've only seen one). We are getting ready to go out for a couple weeks and have just realized it is going to get very cold and we don't have a heater. We have a plate riveted to the exterior that would be the venting area. Can we find a heater anywhere? So far we have had no luck. Can a Coleman heater be modified? Has anyone done this? We are very interested in doing this improvement, but don't know where to start. Does anyone have a possible solution? Thanks, Gregg & Kathleen
Answer: If you plan on being hooked up to electricity, my first recommendation would be to purchase a small ceramic heater. These are typically black, appx. 8" cubes that put off excellent heat. It also uses the campground's electricity instead of your propane. I've even seen double (2-high) ceramic cube heaters for sale online. Singles are about $40.00. My brother has a furnace in his '76 Ramada which he has never used because he loves his ceramic heater!

If you have your heart set on a furnace, there's no reason I know of why any camper furnace wouldn't work. They are pretty expensive, around $400-$500 or more for a new propane camper furnace. You may be able to find a cheaper used one. Just be sure to follow the installation instructions carefully. There's a hydroflame furnace manual recently posted on the web site that can give you a better idea of the installation technique.
From: Doug

 

Subject: Raising Problems
Date: 01/25/01
From: wkinnison@hotmail.com
Question: Hello, my name is Will Kinnison.  I'm 20 and I live in Victoria (Coastal) Texas.  I figured you would love to hear this story.  I was recently GIVEN a 1971 Apache Ramada.  IN GREAT condition!  complete with the plastic awnings.  It belonged to some friends of mine who said that I could have the "old thing" if I would just come get it out of their yard.  The tires were flat, the wheels and tongue were rusted, and the original orange paint was HEAVILY oxidized.  Thy said it had just been sitting there wasting away for 5 YEARS!!!  It took about 5 trips up and down to get the top loosened back up, but the bearing in the wheels, the tongue jack and the trailer wiring is all in perfect condition.  I am so excited about getting this going again.  It needs to be thoroughly cleaned inside, and the plumbing needs to be repaired.  The electrical system is all messed up, and one of the telescopes doesn't go all the way up.  I am into car restoration, and this is going to a great project for me.  I plan on taking pictures the entire time, and I will keep you posted.  I am currently trying to figure out why the one telescope won't fully extend...if you have any suggestions...please let me know.   THANKS!!!
Answer: Hey Will! Congratulations on your Apache acquisition!!!!!!  What a deal!!!   The parts page contains wiring diagrams that may be helpful in the electrical efforts.   As far as the telescoping arm not raising all the way, oftentimes there's a small protrusion on the aluminum or a blob of dirt or something stuck to the track or a small kink or dent in the track that prevents it from rising smoothly and/or causes it to stick. If you can get a helper, try cranking the top up and have you or the helper physically lift or push up on the lagging corner as it's being cranked. It should pop past whatever is holding it up. It could also have skipped a link in the lift 'chain', so this pushing/lifting technique should help pop it back into place if you're lucky.   

Thanks for sharing your story! We look forward to seeing pix of the restoration process! I'm working on an "Apache Restoration" page, inspired by Gary Burch's Apache restoration job. (check out his pix on photopoint.com. The link is on the Apache Trailer Forum under a restoration post by Gary Burch)   Congrat's again, good luck, and Camp On!!!!!!

From: Doug

 

Subject: '76 Ramada (ends are leaking)
Date: 12/17/00
From: Michelle
Question: Hi Doug!  We are proud owners of a 1976 Apache Ramada, that we are currently living in (well I mean sleeping in). We are living with my elderly mother, but there aren't enough beds in the house so we are adding on to the home and sleeping in the camper.  Well, it is winter time in NW Arkansas mid December and boy, have we had some cold weather.  Fortunately we have our camper. Here are a few things we have done to winterize it...I decided I must be able to sleep comfortably so I bought full size mattresses and put them in the slide-outs, very comfortable.  We have a regular sized space heater that keeps it nice and toasty, due to the fact that my husband put encapsulated fiberglass strips along the length of it, then put a large tarp over the whole thing, also he took foam strips and stuffed them in every crack he could find where air might penetrate.  Which brings me to my question of that both slide-outs are leaking water which is why we had to tarp it, any suggestions on what to do about the leaking?  I find it to be really comfortable sleeping out there and I absolutely LOVE our Apache.  Heck we put a TV out there ran a cable line to it.  LOL  Post this if you like, and any advice on the leakage would be appreciated.  Thanks,  Michelle
Answer: My first reaction to your leaking comment is that a full-size mattress is just too heavy for the bed ends. However, if you have only one person per end, it should be OK....  First, check to make sure that the roof over each end is properly attached. The turn-buckle "ears" should be on the INSIDE of the roof edge. Next, be sure the end windows are seated all the way shut. Sometimes they appear to be shut, but are not all the way into the groove(s). Next, be sure that the weather stripping is seated tightly against the bed roof with no kinking, cracking, etc. There're some nice pictures of how this should look on the How To page, along with a nice idea on replacing this stripping. 

Now, be sure that the telescoping lifter arms are covered properly with the plastic covers. The tops of each cover should be tucked nicely under the lip of the roof so water does not get in. Most covers have weather stripping inside each edge for a tight fit. Finally, check the level of each bed end. They should not be sagging or lifted or eneven, but should be sitting nearly level with the rest of the camper as checked from the bottom of each. You may adjust the level of the bed ends by carefully adjusting the nut and bolt that holds the bottom end of each leg brace to the camper frame.

My other thought is, if you have the camper sealed up so tightly, it could just be moisture from condensation. The attic/roof in a house needs to breathe to remove condensation, and so does a camper. That's what the roof vent is for, but if it's sealed super tight to keep the heat in, you may find excess condensation tends to accumulate on the walls and ceiling of the bed ends (similar to a tent that doesn't breathe.) Some folks like to put a tarp down under their popup to prevent extra ground moisture from rising up through the floor if it's going to be in one spot for an extended time.

Look very carefully at the top end corners outside. There could be vertical hairline cracks on the end panel. This is a common stress point and since all the rain that lands on the roof ultimately drains past one or more of these corners, if there's a hairline crack, water will find its way in. This happened to our '79 Ramada. I used the old ABS/MEK mixture and the cracks were fixed in no time. See the "How To" page for ABS repair details.

There's another posting on the " page that discusses proper setup technique to prevent leaks. I hope this info. helps! Good luck to you - enjoy your winter 'home'!

From: Doug

 

Subject: Canvas Replacement on '70 Mesa III
Date: 12/12/00
From: Calvin
Question: I need to replace the canvas on the bed wings of my 1970 Mesa III, but I can not figure out how to disengage the canvas from the aluminum retainer. Any help or suggestions you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
Answer: I've only owned and worked on completely solid state models, so I know very little about canvas. Does anyone have an answer for Calvin? (You could always call Ole' Elmer at Apache Sales Corp. and ask him. I'll bet he knows and could tell you. His info is on the Parts page.)
From: Doug

 

Subject: Gear Pin Dimensions?
Date: 10/09/00
From: Barry Kjelland
Question: Hello! Found your website a few days ago. Have the same problem as many of the Q&A people about the lift mechanisms and gearboxes. I am a machinist and can make many of the parts myself, however, my problem is that the  pin (stay pin?) that holds the center drive gear stationary on both of my gear boxes is broken/bent to a point I cannot get a viable measurement. Evidently the drive gear oscillates back and forth on this pin which is held stationary by the gearbox housing. What I need to know is the dimensions of this pin, and the orientation of the pin. I.E. does it make a difference if the pin is on the left or right facing the front of the camper from the rear crankpoint? I am sure this all is in regard to the basic "timing" of the entire gearbox/lift mechanism. I certainly would appreciate any help you could give, and I would be more than willing to reciprocate.   Thank you 
Answer: If you check the pictures/diagrams in the manual posted at the end of the Parts page, you may find a picture of what you're looking for. I have not had my lift mechanism open yet, so I can't help you with first-hand knowledge... Can anyone else help?
From: Doug

 

Subject: Apache TLC Advice?
Date: 10/09/00
From: Snookie@micron.net
Question: I have a 72 Ramada I've had for 12 years and have lots of fun with it, but with age things are brittle and breaking I need help, maybe some advise on repairing or some advise on parts (living hinges, hard bed ends, and bed sides) I would hate to have to get rid of something that I love and have so much fun with THANKS 
Answer: Please check out the "How To" page. It has all sorts of tips and advice on repairing/enhancing your Apache. There's also a lot of good posts on this very page - just scroll away and read the subject lines until you find something relevant. The Apache Trailer Forum has some good advice too. Good luck!
From: Doug

 

Subject: Apache Gas Lines?
Date: 10/02/00
From: jberwhite@mindspring.com
Question: I would like to know if the gas line that leaves the gas regulator and goes to the connection at the floor can be replaced with a copper line? Both ends are mounted firm to the camper and the line can be strapped to the frame.
Answer: Unfortunately I know very little about gas lines, so I cannot answer this question with authority. I don't even know what the pros & cons of steel versus copper are, except that copper won't rust... I'd like to know myself in case I ever need to replace the line. I imagine copper would be much easier to use.Can anyone help answer this question? Thanks!
From: Doug

 

Subject: No Title (?!?)
Date: 09/20/00
From: Douglas
Question: I know you're not the DMV, whom I have contacted with not much help, but I wanted to know if you have had any correspondence with anyone or come across somebody who has gotten a hold of an Apache ( any pop-up for that matter ) that had no title or registration and was able to get theirs properly tagged and off to camping !?? Here in Fl. ,as in most states I presume, a registration is required in order to get a camper properly tagged. My father-in-law purchased an Apache pop-up on my wife's and my behalf, he is in Tennessee. It had no papers. As well as no info on the ID tag on the tongue to reference. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated !! Thanks, 
Answer: Usually, if you can locate any identifying serial number for the trailer, your state can initiate a new title. You'll have to pay for it, of course...   There's a posting on the "How To" page on how to find your Apache serial number. It should yield one for you. Bring the number, the year, the model name, and the weight to your friendly neighborhood currency exchange (or DMV), and they should be able to issue you temporary tags while the paperwork is processed for a new title and registration.  You'll be camping in no time! :)

9/21 Reply from Paul - Contact Ole' Elmer - he can make a new trailer tag for your camper. Small fee to kill a bad headache.

1/10/01 Reply back from Douglas - I could not find the VIN anywhere so I contacted Ole' Elmer and he sent me a new ID plate. Thanks

From: Doug

 

Subject: 3-Way Refrigerator Operation
Date: 09/12/00
From: Kevin Fish  (Janesville, WI)
Question: Great website!  My name is Kevin Fish.  My dad just bought a 1985 Apache Ramada in nice shape for the family to use.  It appears to have all the original parts and upholstery.  We are not familiar with campers at all and I am looking for some help.  An owners manual came with it but it does not explain the appliances in any detail.  The stove top and furnace work great.  What I need some help with is the refrigerator.  It is a Dometic RM190 gas/electric.  It did not appear to be cooling when I tried it.  I am confused about how to tell it to run on electricity vs. gas vs. battery.  I had the trailer plugged into electricity with the temperature control knob on 4 but it did not cool.  There is an on/off switch inside the compartment behind the refrigerator but it does not do anything because one of the wires coming off of it is disconnected.  It looks like it is supposed to go into a four-way connector that says only DC current should be connected.  The two wires coming out of the other side of the connector go into the metal cylinder that looks like a chimney.  I also lit the pilot for gas operation but I was running out of time and I did not leave it on long enough to see if it would cool.  After all that, here are my refrigerator questions.  

What makes the difference between electricity/gas/battery?  Does it automatically try to use electricity if the trailer is plugged in?  What is the purpose of the on/off switch?  And how long should it take to cool? I would really appreciate any help you can give me.  I was planning to use the trailer this weekend but I want to make sure the refrigerator works before then.  Thanks!   
Answer:  Congrat's on the Apache purchase! Our fridge is only a 2-way (AC/DC). It cools to temperature in about 20 minutes to a half hour on AC. If connected properly, it should automatically use AC when the camper is plugged in. Does anyone else have a better answer for Kevin?    Good luck!!
From:  Doug

 

Subject: Apache Shower?
Date: 09/11/00
From: Douglas
Question: Do you know if there is an apache model that ever had a shower as a standard item or option ? How about anybody creative and fab'ing one themself ? Will have a story for you soon regarding getting an apache !! Thanks for your site and your time
Answer: If you visit the Apache Museum on the web site, you'll notice a number of Apache brochures. The 1977 brochure contains a nice drawing of the interior of a Roamer, complete with shower! I believe '77 is the first year a shower came standard in an Apache, but I'm not certain. Scroll down to the 1985 brochure, and you'll see a different layout with a standard shower (and wardrobe & potti) in the Royal. It even sported a 6 gallon hot water heater! (and a range hood too!) So yes, showers did come standard in certain model Apaches, but I have yet to see one in person. If you're considering building one yourself, I'd recommend perusing the aforementioned floor plans to get an idea of how they were originally placed. Also, if I were to have one today, I would definitely nix the hot water tank and install a small on-demand water heater. They are very small, lightweight, long-lasting, and super efficient. Real Goods carries all sorts of these heaters. There's a Real Goods link at the bottom of the Apache home page and at the top of the For Sale page.
From:  Doug

 

Subject: Refrigerator / Re-vamp?
Date:  8/22/00
From: Mark
Question: Great site! Keep up the good work.   Because of this site, Apache was the only name I would consider for my next camper purchase.  My '76 Startcraft was destroyed by a wind storm last year (thank you God!)    I just picked up '76 Ramada after a summer long search.  I've learned a great deal at this
site so I knew what I was getting into when I purchased our gem. My refrig doesn't seem to work in electric mode AC or DC.  It came on for a short period then stopped and a real weird odor like an old refrigerator filled the cabin.  Are these worth fixing?  I've seen some posts on the effectiveness of these refrigerators saying that they were real slow, and suggestions that you just buy a dorm room refrig, and a DC to AC inverter. I'm also struggling with whether to re-vamp the interior, like paint the ceiling, replace curtains and re-upholster the seat cushions.  Part of me says to keep it original and keep the nostalgia.  The exterior is orange, and I think I want to keep this original and retain the character.
Answer: Thanks for the nice comments Mark, and congrat's on your find! We've been really happy with the fridge in our '75 Royal and now our newly purchased '79 Ramada. It's sturdy, cools to temperature very quickly, and even makes ice! Both of these are two-way AC/DC models and do not run off propane (which would be nice in remote areas...)  You'll need to price out the difference between getting this unit fixed or purchasing a new AC unit and inverter. If anyone has more info. on what the problem may be, please write!
As far as an interior re-vamp, I'd recommend camping in it for a season or two and then deciding what to do. We found our plaid green cushions actually started to grow on us, and the wagon-wheel curtains just seemed to go with the camper. However, you may decide you really don't like the look or feel, and come up with some nice ideas that will suit you better. If the camper is in nice shape, you may be better off keeping it the way it is. Good luck with the fridge!
From: Doug

 

Subject: Canvas Waterproofing?
Date:  8/16/00
From:  100314.1472@compuserve.com
Question: I recently purchased a '65 Apache Chief. The canvas is great, but it needs to be waterproofed. On the web I found a recipe for a homemade sealant. It's easy: mix 3 cups of soybean oil with 11/2 cups turpentine and paint on with a brush. Repeat every 1-2 years. This sounds interesting, although I'm wary of adding chemicals that could damage or discolor the canvas. Have you ever heard of this method being used? Is it safe, or am I better off sending the trailer for a professional coat of Scotchguard? Thanks, George Wehrfritz.
Answer: I don't recommend the oil bath. If it isn't dried completely it could turn rancid. Use a good quality rain repellent like RAIN CHEX, which is made for canvas. It also has mildew repellents and dries light.
TEST a small area first, especially the stitching  to make sure it doesn't attack it. I had a small patch that had to be replaced because the sealer softened it, making it sticky. Silicone sealers work but tend
to seal the canvas, not letting body moisture out making it feel clammy. I used to keep a cheap woven plastic tarp to cover the canvas during down pours. Always dry in the garage for several days after camping, this will reduce the chance of mildew (the number 1 killer of good canvas).
From: Paul M. Drescher

 

Subject: My Apache bed needs new plywood!
Date: 8/14/00
From: gary@bii.cc.ks.us
Question: One of my Ramada beds was sagging so much, I removed the plywood and now realize it is larger than standard lumber yards offer.  It measures about 6' by 4.5' and is 3/8" thick.  I've tried all the local lumber yards, and all they offer is ping-pong table material that will meet those dimensions without seams, but that stuff is $80 a sheet and is 3/4-inch thick, which is way too heavy and won't fit without edge routing.  Got any great suggestions to save me?
Answer: 8/15 - Cut a groove in the plywood with a router and part of another piece and make a spline to fit in the groove and glue both pieces together. Another way would be to tap small nails into the edge of one board , then cut the heads off, leaving a 1/4" stub. Then tap the boards together  while using a fiberglass epoxy to glue them together. Then take a strip of fibermesh 2"-3" wide and when thoroughly saturated lay over the joint. When hard, flip the wide panel over and put a strip on that side. If you want you could even put a wider strip 6" over the first just to be sure. The fiberglass trick works. I have used it several times on other projects. Marine grade plywood is best (no voids) but Home Depot has a really good plywood (select cuts) which would be cheaper.
From: Paul Drescher

 

Subject: '69 Eagle Parts/Info.?
Date: 08/06/00
From: johnbaker@swbell.net
Question: I purchased my 1969 Eagle about four years ago, I have been making progress this summer and need some help. If anyone could assist me with set-up procedures/pics, Velcro updates for bad zippers or comments are welcome. Anyone have a pair of hub caps.

The lower bed slide (near hitch)  binds when sliding. The other slide and the other bed work great.
I have the optional awning but would like a screen, add-a-room or other attachments. I am interested in any parts or other fix-up items you may have.

I am getting real excited about getting to use my Apache Eagle!!! I'm glad to know there is such interest in this product!

Regards, John Baker
Answer: Hubcap information is listed on the Apache Trailer Forum. Apparently, some Pilot truck stop/gas stations carry "half-moon" hubcaps that work great. There's also some good advice on the "How To" page that could be helpful to you. Good Luck!
From: Doug

 

Subject:  Lift System Repair Question
Date:  8/4/00
From: Dennis in Connecticut DennisFVE@cs.com
Question: After 25 years, I'm experiencing my first lift problem.  Using Ole' Elmer's manual I was able to remove the chain and then replace the broken cables per John's "How-To" advice.  Although the chain moves freely in the track, when I connect it to the top and install the gear box the rear system binds up.  The
right rear middle extr. seem a little tight, so I tried to remove it, but have yet to get it out.  The gear box is fine.  I took it apart and everything checks out okay. Any ideas? Thanks.........
Answer: Yikes! I've been lucky so far and have not had to open the lift systems up, so unfortunately I have no advice. Anyone else?
From:  

 

Subject: Apache Miniportamansion?
Date: 6/25/00
From: Stan  coyote@qwksilvr.com
Question: I just bought an Apache tent trailer made in 1970 s/n 109011650 it had a sticker on the back that says it is a Miniportamansion and on the side was a name with plastic letters but they a gone but the number III is still there any information will be helpful. I am looking for owner manuals and a place for parts also a parts list.
Answer: Congratulations on the purchase! I've never heard of a "Miniportamansion" before...
The only parts lists I have are all referenced on the Parts page. Some are at other web sites, and a few parts manual pages are listed at the bottom of the page. Apache Sales Corp. in Lapeer Michigan carries parts and owner's manuals, as well as replacement parts for most Apache's. Sounds like it could be a Mesa III...
From: Doug

 

Subject: What Happened to Apache?
Date: 6/10/00
From: Terry
Question: In 1964 my father bought an Apache Silver Eagle that moved the family off the ground. The next year, he bought a 65 Golden Buffalo. 30 years later when I bought my first pop-up I was surprised to find the Apache brand missing from the RV market. What happened? Your web
site is very informative, but it never mentions what happened to the company. Did poor sales force it out of business? Did Apache's excursion into full size (your web site does not even mention the full size trailers Apache built in the seventies) trailers have an impact on it's failure? Did anyone try to by it? Has anyone tried to buy the rights to build Apaches again?

Lots of questions, but I do love the pop-ups and would buy a new one today if they were available.  Thanks,  Terry

7/9 Reply from Macon
I don't know if it is true but I was reading in the popup news group that Palomino bought out Apache. Does anyone Know anything about this? Macon

Answer: I wish I knew what happened to Apache. I've heard bits and pieces about the Vesely Corporation, but I really don't know the whole story. I heard they were in debt and had to sell off the assets (aka: the company) to pay off the debt. Apparently Apache did make a brief foray into full-sized trailers. I've been informed that the rights to the Apache name were sold to someone who is currently using it for pickup truck campers.

If anyone could share the story of the rise and fall of the Apache, please do!!

12/17 Reply from Joyce & Larry
I recently bought a  2000 yr "Apache 18 ft trailer. The top elevates up either automatically or with a crank. It was made by SUN-LITE ; which recently changed to SUN-VALLEY. They no longer make these travel trailers. I contacted the company because I couldn't find a pic of my
camper on there site.I was informed the 2000 yr model was the last of this lil indian. Mine is fully loaded ; 2 full size bunk beds; fridge; air; shower; toilet; micro; etc....By the info on this site for
Apache's ,and one of the post asking if they were making travel trailers; I thought I might pass this info to you. I'm sure these two 'lil indians MUST be related !!! Let me know what you think, OK. Another one  bites the dust! I have only seen one other one like ours & everyone in the campgrounds are interested in it. Do you think they are related??? Joyce&Larry in Kansas (OZ)

From: Doug

 

Subject: Musty smell
Date: 6/6/00
From: Mark
Question: I just purchased a 1975 Royal and everything in it is original even the curtains which are in very good shape.  It has a musty smell. I cleaned the whole camper with pine sol and aired it out, but can't get the musty smell out. My question is, is there a way to get the smell out? Anyone know of anything I can use?
Answer: Congrat's on the Royal purchase! We own the same year & model. It's a great camper. I've found that Apache's typically have the same sort of smell, and it brings back great memories for me. However, my wife does not particularly care for the smell. She used a product called Febreeze, and sprayed pretty-much everything in the camper with it. It worked very well, and the odor is almost negligible. Burning candles also helps clean the air - just be careful and use the restaurant kind if possible. The more you use the camper, cook in it, etc, the more the musty smell will subside. Good luck!
From: Doug

 

Subject: Decor Update
Date: 6/5/00
From: The Eckman Family
Question: We purchased an older model hard plastic sided Apache pop-up last year and love it. I would like to update the decor - do you know where I can purchase curtains with the slider tabs and also seat cushions? Any info would be helpful.
Answer: Although I haven't personally checked, I don't believe curtains are available any more from any of the various places listed on the Parts page. I guess it wouldn't hurt to check. However, a number of the places listed do carry new curtain tape available in any length. Just select your material, cut it to size, and sew (or stick?) the curtain tape on. One reader said they sewed jewelry beads onto their curtains and the beads fit right into the tracks and made it easier to slide. My brother's Apache has small brass curtain rods attached over the windows, and regular homemade curtains attached to those. What I'm saying is, there's many ways to attach your own home made curtains, since I'm not sure if you can purchase new ones to fit. Curtains are easy and fun to make - lots of folks have done it!

As far as the cushions go, there's a link on the Parts page that takes you to a nice site that sells new cushions!

If any one else sends in their advice, I'll post it here. Good luck Jody!!!

From: Doug

 

Subject: How to properly fold up Apache canvas top
Date: 4/25/00
From: William honey1947@hotmail.com
Question: We recently bought an Apache pop up canvas top camper. It has a little cabinet that pulls up between the beds. It has windows on each end by the beds and one across from the door. We were told they thought it was a late 70's model and they thought it was called a BUFFALO. Can anyone help tell me how to fold it back up the right way? It has 5 poles no crank or anything . Would like all the help I can get. Please E-mail me at honey1947@hotmail.com if you can tell me
Answer: Eagles and Ravens have their door entrance in the rear of the camper. Buffalo campers
have their doors in the side next to the tire. My Silver Eagle has a swing-up cabnet just like you describe. Other than lifting up and swinging the aluminium cabnet down to the floor the directions to close up the camper are the same as the raven (for which the instructions are already on the Apache web site). If you have further need of help just e-mail me and i will try to help. paul d
From: Paul sensi3d@execpc.com

 

Subject: Power Converter Problem
Date: 3/11/00
From: Jason at easyjs@harborside.com
Question: I am having trouble with my power converter for my 1969 Apache camper if any one can help please let me know.
Answer: There has been numerous write-ups on electrical issues on this site. Unfortunately there's no searchable function to easily find them. There is a few on the "How To" page, and quite a few on this Q&A page and also on Q&AII. So far, the expert in the ranks appears to be Mark. You may want to email him with more specifics. Good luck!

3/15 Reply from Mark
What type of problem? No power when plugged into 120 VAC? No power when pluged into 12VDC? Here is an obvious question/ maybe a simple fix: on the 70's Apaches there is a buss fuse within 2" of the floor on the kickboard at the front of the camperbox /pullout sleeper. It is hard to see. If it is not this then it maybe the burned out 120VAC connection that I described as a potential safety problem about 7 months ago on this webpage.

From: Doug  doug@apachepopups.com

 

Subject: '75 Apache Ramada questions
Date: 2/17/00
From: MackenzieMS@Npt.NUWC.Navy.Mil
Question: I'm looking at a 75 Apache Ramada for sale in my area. When it rains and the camper is open, the roof tends to sag around the vent fan which causes the water to pool and leak in a little. To alleviate this problem the owner has made a make shift prop to hold this area up. Has anyone had this problem and how extensive is it to repair? What should I look out for when examining this unit? The refrigerator doesn't work as it needs an ammonia charge. Is there anyone that services these refrigerators or is it best just to toss it? The pump for the sink doesn't work. Can it be rebuilt or are there replacements available. Are they expensive? It also needs cosmetic work to the counter tops, flooring, roof supports, possible replacement of bedding cushions, replacement of curtains and the windows are starting to yellow? Good news is frames solid, top raising mechanism works fine, furnace works, electrical works and just installed new tires last summer. He utilizes a firebird with a 305 to tow it and when it gets over 60 it starts to sway. I'm looking to tow it w/ an 82 Chrysler New Yorker w/ a 318, if I utilize a anti sway bar will I be able to alleviate this problem. If so how much and where are these bars available from. The owner wants $1200. Is this is a reasonable price for this unit. If not what is?  V/R, Mark
Answer: I just received a brochure from a '75 Ramada. They were really the Cadillac of campers, and arguably still are! No pop-up was quite as large or deluxe as the Ramada. This is the first I've heard of a sagging roof. I suspect something or someone very heavy caused an internal support to snap. I could be wrong. If anyone has experience with this, please write in!!!

If you haven't already read the How To Buy An Apache page, please do so. It should help. Do NOT toss out the refrigerator. These are expensive and very difficult to replace with the same size. The fridge was an add-on accessory that ran around $300.00 back then. I'm sure any refrigerator place could get it working for you for a minimum charge. If you don't want to get it fixed, please let us know and I bet another Apache owner would gladly purchase it from you. There's a want ad for one currently running on the For Sale/Wanted page. A 12V electric water pump can be purchased almost anywhere (definitely RV places) and they are not that expensive. (I believe around $20?) Some of the Apache parts places sell replacement windows, and even tinted ones for the bed ends.

Your car should have no problem towing it. We currently tow ours with a 4 cylinder 2.3! It really shouldn't be towed too fast, though. I believe 55mph should be the maximum speed limit for an Apache. It may even be slower, but I do tend to tow mine in the 55-60 range on highways. Just stay around 55 (which is the towing law limit in most states) and you shouldn't have a problem. I've heard of folks putting the sway bars on, but I don't know much about them.

This camper has been known to go for $1600-$1800 or more with everything in good solid working condition. Considering the roof and the other work that needs to be done, I'd guess the asking price is about right, maybe a little bit high. I would certainly try to talk it down a bit. You may want to call some of the places listed on the Parts page and see what they would charge for the needed repairs. Then ask the owner to consider giving a price break based on how much it would cost to fix. Once you get it fixed up, you could have yourself one stylin' camper! Good luck Mark!!!

2/21 Reply from Larry
I have a 1974 Apache Mesa, which I'm trying to sell through this Web site. I bought a Sway Bar for mine and when it's hooked-up, I've "Cruised" at 65-70MPH for hours at a time through many States, up and down mountains, etc. with absolutely no problems. (Warning, make sure you know your wheel bearings are in good condition before attempting these kinds of speeds). There is NO sway of any type even when an 18 wheeler goes whooshing by the other direction on two lane roads. The sway bar is made by "Draw-Tite" and sells for around $150.00 installed. The installation is critical, the welds must be within 1/8". My experience is all 100%, where ever the towing vehicle goes, the Mesa is right there like it's welded to the frame. The only time you will have trouble towing any Apache is when you go through the hills and mountains, but, most towing vehicles will groan a little anyway no matter what you pull.

3/30 Reply from John
My 77 Ramada sags in the middle also but does not leak. The fan unit is relatively heavy not to have any support nearby. as you know a limb fell through my roof and I had to remove the entire cover to repair the damage. while the cover was off I noticed there was really no support for the fan. I am in the process of fabricating a roof support that will fit in the ceiling and actually be strong enough to hold the fan. Will forward materials and measurements later.
About sway control, look first at how the trailer is loaded (tounge weight should be 8 to 12 percent of the trailer weight) then make sure the rear suspension of the tow vehicle is in
good order. I think vehicle suspension is the problem MOST of the time. I pulled my ramada 6800 miles at 65 mph and it never swayed once. This exacted a toll on the rear suspension of my vehicle as when i returned the shocks had to be replaced. the shocks were replaced before i left on the trip as well. Remember when you are towing a ramada you have nearly 200 pounds of weight on the hitch. If you have weak springs or shocks the trailer will have some room to roam and will sway. The truth is that most vehicles are not designed to tow trailers. Good Camping and Keep those apache's rolling. John Kennedy

From: Doug  doug@apachepopups.com

 

Subject: 1946 Apache Prototype
Date: 2/16/00
From: John Zornes  jmz@best.com
Question: I have an Apache prototype built in 1947. It is intact and was used by the family way back when. It was made by hand by a machinist and has the pop-out design. I hope to move the trailer and pop it out sometime in the next couple of weeks. It has not been used or opened in many, many years but appears to be clean and in working condition. As far as restoration, it seems to me that some rudimentary cleaning and replacement of some of the bedding might be in order. I do not yet know the integrity of the canvas yet. I believe the camper to be useable and it is located in San Francisco at this time. I have considered the museum donation route but I have to say that circumstances make selling attractive to me. But I would like to get some good photos to you and others to have your opinions. My chief challenge is extracting it from the garage it's in. As far as price, I haven't really got a baseline to go on yet but I am trying to talk with different people who have opinions on such things. I would certainly appreciate your input on this. Please let me know some kind of range if possible. JMZ

3/25 Update: I finally got my website up and running for the trailer. Explore the site thoroughly using the scroll bar so you see all the photos. There are other photos showing details such as the crank, hitch and axel.   http://www.geocities.com/vintrv/index.html

Answer: Wow! This is really something special! I wish I had some idea about value, but I do not. Perhaps someone from the old Apache company is reading this and can respond with a better answer. Ole' Elmer at Apache Sales Corp. may have an opinion on the matter, but you'd have to call him. Can anyone out there help John put a value on this important piece of history? Very nice web site John - good job! Very interesting camper too!!!!!
From: Doug  doug@apachepopups.com

 

Subject: 74 Ramada, won't open
Date: 2/16/00
From: NAMAGAW@aol.com
Question: I just purchased a 1974 Apache Ramada, got it home and just the front section opens, the gear box in the rear just pops, where do I start?
Answer: Well, if you want to raise it up to get inside, you can have a friend lift the lagging end while you crank it up. Once the walls get pushed into place, it'll hold just fine. To replace the gear boxes, you'll have to purchase replacements and follow the instructions. Detailed instructions with pictures are listed towards the end of the Parts page in Adobe format. It will walk you through removing the plastic road cover, then the tracks, then the gears. Rest assured, the aluminum replacement gears will last WAY longer than the original plastic ones. Good Luck!
From: Doug  doug@apachepopups.com

 

Subject: Rehabbing A '77
Date: 2/11/00
From: Clyde  cjk@kiva.net
Question: Doug, this Apache, according to the title is a '77. I have no idea what model. This s/n that is located on the frame, is it the same as the vehicle identification number and can it tell me the model? Complete hardside, w/icebox, a two burner stove and sink that rolls outside thru a panel in the side. It has a 12v light in the ceiling, does this run from the truck battery or is there supposed to be a converter or an on board battery? Some of the wiring has been snipped off. Is there anywhere I can find floorplans of the campers? I would like to install a lp/ac fridg, maybe a furnace, & would like tips how this can be done. Info from other "do it your selfers" would be appreciated.
Answer: I'm not sure about the vehicle numbers. Your Apache originally should have come with a converter. When plugged in to an AC outlet, it would power the light and vent fan. Most units also had the capability to run the 12V tow vehicle connection through to the equipment. Our Apache also has an access panel with an additional external battery hookup to run the fridge in remote locations. Our furnace works great with only LP. The electric blower helps.

There are some floorplan pictures on two brochures that are posted on the Apache Museum page. Check the "How To" page for electrical advice. There are also some wiring diagrams on the Parts page. Additional diagrams can be ordered from many of the places listed on that page too, and I think a parts place link has a wiring diagram also. Good luck Clyde!

2/20 Reply from Mark
Apaches use the standard 4 color wiring that all trailers use, if it has electic brakes the blue (fifth)wire is for these brakes,. A sixth wire is there also, it is the 12 volt positive to power the lights in a rustic camping enviroment. A deep cycle battery could be wired in and kept right in the trailer hitch area. This spares the vehicle's battery.

From: Doug  doug@apachepopups.com

 

Subject: Lift Handle / Jacks
Date: 02/02/00
From: Clyde cjk@kiva.net
Question: I just purchased a 77 Apache popup which needs some work. I will need to purchase a lift crank handle and leveling jacks. If I had the dimensions of the handle, I would have a machine shop make it for me. What will the jacks cost me, and how many will I need? If you can help me , it would be appreciated. Thank you. Clyde
Answer: You may want to try one of the places listed on the Parts page and see if you could purchase a lift crank. You should also get  4 jacks: one for each corner. These can probably be purchased from any RV parts store. Any one else have any advice? Good luck Clyde!

2/20 Reply from Mark
These jacks are available from Elmer. I was at his shop and saw them
first hand. Welding is required. Elmer has the cranks also. 30.00 for a 'short' crank. about 65.00 for an OEM crank.

From: Doug  doug@apachepopups.com

 

Subject: Electrical Update?
Date: 01/27/00
From: bobinstl@juno.com
Question: Would like to up date wiring on my Mesa, so that I can run a refrigerator, add a couple of outlets, and use a 1500 wt ceramic heater.  Can I modify the power converter, or will I need a new one?
Answer: Unless we can get an electrician to answer here, I'd go talk to one to find out what you need. Usually, a nice small local electric/ or lamp store should have someone behind the counter who knows everything electrical. Just copy down what's currently in the camper and bring the info. in. They should be able to recommend a better breaker, wiring, and outets. As for the power converter, it really depends on what you want to do. We only use our converter to run the 12 volt light and water pump when we're plugged into 110AC. We run our fridge and extra outlets off AC only. Granted, it's wired so we could run the AC/DC accessories off a 12 volt car battery if we wanted to, and even through the tow wiring connection while we're driving, but we've had no need to use that. So if you don't plan on running the fridge or outlets from a 12V source through the converter, you won't necessarily need to upgrade the converter. Just add your wiring/outlets and perhaps breaker. Does anyone else with greater electrical knowledge care to add anything? Good luck Bob! Please keep us informed if you find out anything useful! :)

1/28 Reply from Mark
Think of this formula when designing electrical circuits: amps = watts divided by volts. So 1500 watts divided by 110 volts = 15 amps . At most campgrounds the 120 volt circuits are rated at a minium of 15 amps, more commonly at 20 amps. This is particularly true if you use a converter plug to take the 220 volt circuit to 120 volts. So the total combination of appliances no matter how you slice it or dice it can not exceed the total rated amperage. Think of it as a circle of chain links. The next link in the chain is the 14 Gauge wire that came with the Apache (remember someone could of changed it). 14 gauge wire is rated at 15 amps max..

So will you be able to run a 1500 watt heater AND the converter on one cord? Remember that the converter uses 3 - 5 amps by its self, it provide the 12 volts DC that powers your fan and light, it uses power even if the light and fan are off. Well of course not. It may work for a
period of time but it will most certainly fail. You can't get around the laws of nature.

One possible solution is to run a separate cord to the campground box to power your high current draw devices. This could be a long term set up or simply an extension cord. Another possibility, If you camp at a facility that is wired for 220 volts, is to run a 10 gauge wire (which is rated at 30 amps) to the campgrounds box for a 220 volt circuit. At the Apache end you can wire in a electrical box that will split the circuit and provide you with 2 120 volt 15 amp circuits, one for the converter and one for your heater.

In addition Doug,  Your converter does not convert 12 volts of your car battery to 120 VAC. That is a INVERTER. The solid state technology to do this did not exist until after the Apache company went out of business. The converter is a transformer. It takes 120 VAC to 12 volts. It also has a -think of it as a bypass valve- 120 volt outlet. If you're camping in the rough w/o 120 VAC you'll only get to use the 12 volt devices in the camper i.e. the light, fan and blower on the furnace and a frigde if it is a LP type. - Mark Moran

1/30 Reply from Paul
What I do in very cold weather camping is to take a second electric heater and an extension cord along and plug that to another circuit on the campground post. That would be the easiest and cheapest answer to the electric heater question.  - Paul

From: Doug  doug@apachepopups.com

 

Subject: '70 Apache Ramada needs work
Date: 01/17/00
From: Don  dsbannister@earthlink.net
Question: We just acquired a 1970 Apache Ramada tent trailer. It needs a great deal of work!!!   Information regarding the wiring, tongue crank system, canope lift system, and wiring for the interior would be very helpful.
Answer: Well Don, if you check the manual that's posted on the Parts page, you should find some of what you're looking for. In addition, a few of the places listed carry various manuals for various models. I'd check everything on this site, as well as any other sites listed on the Parts page. Then, determine what information you still need and start calling the places listed. If anyone else has any info on this model, please let us know. Thanks, and good luck Don!!
From: Doug  doug@apachepopups.com

 

Subject: Noisy furnace blower
Date: 01/16/00
From: Dave Mitchell mitchdaw@idirect.com
Question: I have a 77 Ramada with the propane furnace. We have owned this for about a year. The blower motor on the furnace is rather noisy and I would like to replace it with a quieter one. Does anyone know where new motors can be obtained, or if this is even possible?   Dave Mitchell
Answer: If someone could please answer this question, I'm sure it will make many folks very happy indeed! Our blower is so noisy that we usually have to turn it off when we go to sleep and let the furnace crank away without it. On really cold nights we have to keep the blower on, and it takes quite a while to let the noise lull us to sleep. So thanks for asking this question Dave - I sure hope someone has an answer!!

1/17 Reply from Paul
Have you tried W.W. GRAINGER? It is an industrial supply house and has an unbelievable stock of motors. If you don't have one near just give me all the info off the motor name plate, especially the voltage , frame series, and rough motor dimensions. I have a catalog and will look it up. Paul D.   (or you can try an online search on their new web site)

As an after thought, it is possible to mount a muffin fan in the bottom of the heater cabinet. They are very quiet. It would need rubber isolation feet and have enough clearance so that if the fan isn't running the heat will not melt the fan (plastic)???   paul

3/21 Reply from AJ
|Doug-not sure what kind of furnace you have in your Apache. I thought the blower had to run (a) to exhaust carbon monoxide from the furnace and (b) to keep the furnace itself from overheating. I wouldn't want to see you run a risk of CO poisoning or having a fire.
happy camping-AJ

3/22 Reply from Doug
Thanks for the heads up AJ! The furnace came with the Apache in 1975. The blower appears to only blow air out the front into the camper. The vent on the outside seems to crank out excess heat and fumes equally with or without the blower on. The cabinet above the furnace does get very hot with the blower on, and even hotter without the blower on. We have to keep the cabinet door open either way with no combustibles in the area. I've always been a bit leery about running it without the blower - but it gets so hot and noisy. I'll probably play it safe and use the blower until I find out for sure about the fumage.

Can anyone answer this blower question for us?

From: Doug  doug@apachepopups.com

 

Subject: Lift system repair - '72 Roamer?
Date: 01/10/00
From: charity@bwkip.com
Question: I would like to know the procedure for repairing the complete lift system. Also how do you start taking it apart? What would the cost be? What parts would you need to do this and where would you find them? Also how would you find out for sure what camper you have? Thanks Scott
Answer: You should probably give Ole' Elmer a call at Apache Sales Corp. The contact information is on the Parts page of this site. He can help you figure out your model. He has a complete manual that describes the process in detail with pictures for about $12.00. Part of the manual is scanned in at the end of the Parts page. It describes the entire gear replacement procedure.

It's about $150.00 per gear box, so for 2 it's around $300.00.  I have not done it myself, but many, many folks have and someone may contact you with information. There's also a few folks listed on both Q&A pages that may be willing to offer up advice if you contact them.  Good luck!
From: Doug  doug@apachepopups.com

 

Subject: Hard to crank up
Date: 01/10/00
From: cottrellpd@uswest.net
Question: I grew up camping in a 1971 Roamer in Montana. My parents now want to sell it to me. I can only figure we used it two or three times a year each summer up to 1989. Since then it
has been under tarps in the back yard. It is in perfect condition, really taken good care of. Recently we tried to raise the top. It is very difficult. We have all the manuals and info on the gears boxes. My question is, could it just need grease after all these years folded down?. If so how much work is it to find out. I can't wait to bring the Apache down here to Colorado and show it off to all my friends with cheap Coleman knock offs.

Greg Wiley - Aurora, Colorado
Answer: Way to go Greg!  I believe there is a lubrication schedule for the tracks, but I'm not sure about the gears. You should give Ole' Elmer a call. His info is on the Parts & Service page. He will definitely be able to give you an answer to this question. If anyone else responds, I'll be sure to post it here. Good luck!!!
From: Doug  doug@apachepopups.com

 

Subject: Interior Height / Insulated Walls?
Date: 01/01/2000
From: Mark Biederbeck meb8100@msn.com
Question: How much head room is in a later model Apache trailer? I'm 6' 4". Also, when were the insulated sides added? Great website! I'm thinking seriously of buying one of these, especially after checking out all the info here. Thanks
Answer: Hey Mark - thanks for the first email of the new millennium! Seeing as our Apache is shut for the season, I can't measure it to answer the interior height question. However, I'm 6'1" with my boots on and there has always been plenty of head room in our 75 Royal. I don't have an exact answer for the insulated walls question either, but my brother's '76 Ramada has insulated walls (inside wood panels) while our '75 Royal doesn't. Can anyone out there help Mark out with a better answer to these questions? Please let us know the answer if you do find out. Good luck with your camper search!!

(01/14 Reply from Irene & Robert)
Hi Mark: Greetings from the land of the Apache birth. Walking around in the trailer is not the problem. There is plenty of head room. Our 6' 4" son walks around in our trailer with no problem. Your problem will be the bed length. What you need is an Apache triler with a goucho (sofa that makes into a double bed). The sofa is 7 feet long. We know a tall Apache owner who had to go this route.

Our Yuma has the double walls from the folding part up. The lower walls are all single wall metal. The top is ABS plastic with white paneling on the inside for the bunks. The main walls are metal on the outside and brown paneling on the inside with an air gap in between. At the round-up the other trailers had double walls from the hinge part down and I have single wall from the hinge down. They had single wall from the hinge up and I have double wall from the hinge up. Go figure. The only trailer I've seen that was double wall both top and bottom was a Cimarron (I love that trailer). Some one with the last name of Lockhart posted last year about insulating his trailer. You might want to go back through the archived posts.

Irene and Robert

From: Doug  doug@apachepopups.com


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